Relais Des Merveilles

Stunning location. Immaculate accommodations. Extraordinary service. Located way up the Gordolasque Valley near the trailhead to the Valley of Marvels, Jean-Paul's Relais is everything good I'd read about Alps trekking accommodations. I was there to dovetail some wolf-tracking with Valley of Marvels petroglyph-viewing: found both in one long day-hike, though by mid-May the upper trails were still significantly snow-covered. The hike turned into a proto-Alpine, route-finding white-knuckler. Bring a good map/gear if you're going in May. As my hiking sandals weren't fit for steep snow-traverses, Jean-Paul loaned me a pair of hiking boots (and packed me a lunch of exceptional local cheese, meats and bread) that made the higher passes accessible: barely. Crampons and an ice axe would have helped. Many of the petroglyphs, including the famous sorcerers, remained buried under snow, but that disappointment was tempered by finding several chamois (they're everywhere) wolf-kills and parallel adult/pup wolf tracks - just 30 miles from the French Riviera. Sun-burned and exhausted, after a hot shower, I was treated to as fine a four-course meal as any I've ever had in the States. I booked the dormitory sleeping option several weeks in advance, and had the dorm to myself. The entire place is spotless. 2 nights, 3 meals: 75 euros. As marvelous as it gets.